Sunday, 16 November 2014

November 10 Agia Palagia

We have quite a lot to ground to cover in our remaining week, so decided to continue west along the coast, as the weather was too good to go back into the mountains. Heraklion prefecture is certainly not the most attractive part of the island as you drive along the coast road - very barren gullies, interspersed with the city of Herakleon, the airport and sprawling resorts. We should have gone to Knossos but it was too sunny! Instead we dropped down into Agia Palagia to have a look and ended up staying in 'Sunday Life' Hotel. Such a strange name, but a good place situated on the side of the hill with lots to look at. Stelios, the owner was very welcoming and plied us with 'frappes' (iced coffees), the Greek's favourite drink on hot days, baklava and raki as a start! We staggered down to the next door beach at Ligiria,  as the sun had gone off the local one. The swimming was lovely. The only place open was a rather arty bar where I read my book and Alec painted. The  owner was very busy building his still for making raki, and wasn't that pleased to be interrupted! He is quite a talented artist with his wares hanging along the fence, with a rather exotic Russian girlfriend who was beautifully turned out in high heels and a tight dress. I felt very scruffy beside her, even if my clothes are unintentionally quite tight too!

We were given some olives and spam type sausage with our drinks which we were sure was really meant for the cats who were fortunately very keen to help us eat it.


Stelios has quite a reputation as a chef and likes to compete with his mother: tonight was her turn and she cooked us quite the best Beef Stifado, rich and meltingly tender. We really like it when we don't have to decide what to eat, and they just produce what they have prepared. Grandfather sat in another corner and ate like a king too. They only sell wine by the bottle which was a bit of a shock as usually we just get a little carafe of whatever is going. It did taste awfully good though and we have even kept some for tomorrow!

This is Alec's favourite boat. He is going to build one like it when he has time. The owner was sitting behind it selling the few little fish he had caught that day.

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