Paleochora 20-24 October.
We are now heading to the South coast, via Polirinia, the old roman settlement on top of the hills behind Kissamos.
We wound our way along the tiny road until the small village of Polirinia appeared: we parked and walked around trying to make sense of a map given to us by a local lady (originating from Newcastle) in the cafe. There was not a great deal to see above 1 metre high and we were keen to get on, in case we were wasting precious sunbathing opportunities.
Several hours later we arrived in Paleochora which is a small town on a peninsula, on the south coast. Various people had said that it has an 'end of the world ' feel and they are right. The Glaros Hotel is in a back street and typical 2* family run, and they were very welcoming. The town is about 4 streets
wide between 2 very long beaches, so whatever the weather, one side will be fairly sheltered.
The beach was only about 100 yds away so a lazy afternoon was spent. It was very windy (we were
on the wrong side!!) and quite rough, so only Alec swam.
Tuesday 21st October 2014
Today was really hot and sunny so we took the opportunity to drive to Elafonisi which is one of the renowned beauty spots on Crete. The hills and valleys we drove over to get there were amazing and we couldn't have done it on bikes. Elafonisi really does have the 'wow ' factor and out of season, was not too crowded at all. The water was crystal clear so beautiful for swimming. There is pink sand on the water's edge made up from broken coral.
The beach and surrounding area was covered in butterflies, Swallowtails, Queen of Spain's, Painted Ladies and many we couldn't identify.
We managed to navigate back along even more tortuous mountain roads with no sign of life, other than many bee hives. We had a disappointing supper at a Pizza place where it was impossible to
avoid smokers. In fact, it is impossible to avoid smokers in any taverna as the Greeks have made a conscientious decision to take no notice of the smoking ban.
Wednesday 22nd October
It was pouring all morning so we sheltered in a cafe and wrote postcards.
Thursday 23 October.
The weather has picked up again so we hired some rather better bikes and intended to ride up to Anidri from where a gorge starts and runs down to Gianiskari Beach. But half way up the not
inconsiderable hill we decided that we weren't here to test ourselves so turned around and free wheeled back to the start and took the un metaled track to Gianiskari which follows the coast. This was fun until two thirds of the way there and with our destination in sight, the heavens opened! Pedaling like mad and by now accompanied by the usual stray dog we prayed that if the beach bar was closed at least it's awning might still be in tact.
Thrillingly not only was it intact but it was open and serving magnificent food, probably because the Greek walking highway The E4 runs along this piece of coastline and there is a constant stream of all shapes and sizes puffing their way up and down the gorges on their way to who knows where!
We parked our bikes under the shelter and set about getting stuck into a bottle of Retzina for me and a demi of krassi aspro for her with an avocado salad and a Cretan salad with myzithra (soft) Cretan cheese.
We cycled home and the weather wasn't too kind but we still hadn't had a swim so selecting a sheltered spot Alec stripped off (with trunks on) and plunged into the waves only to be shouted at by a Greek who said it was too dangerous to swim here! Never heard such nonsense but since Vivi was taking him particularly seriously I did as I was told and clambered out.
That evening being a little bit tired of a choice every evening of Chicken, lamp chops (as it's written on the menu) or pork (souvlaki or otherwise) we opted for The Third Eye a vegetarian restaurant. It was packed and quite rightly so, the food was excellent, we went for the vegetable curry and the
owner was actually a 'seer' and had the Third Eye, made you think twice about some of the things you'd like to say about the other diners!
We are now heading to the South coast, via Polirinia, the old roman settlement on top of the hills behind Kissamos.
We wound our way along the tiny road until the small village of Polirinia appeared: we parked and walked around trying to make sense of a map given to us by a local lady (originating from Newcastle) in the cafe. There was not a great deal to see above 1 metre high and we were keen to get on, in case we were wasting precious sunbathing opportunities.
wide between 2 very long beaches, so whatever the weather, one side will be fairly sheltered.
The beach was only about 100 yds away so a lazy afternoon was spent. It was very windy (we were
on the wrong side!!) and quite rough, so only Alec swam.
Tuesday 21st October 2014
Today was really hot and sunny so we took the opportunity to drive to Elafonisi which is one of the renowned beauty spots on Crete. The hills and valleys we drove over to get there were amazing and we couldn't have done it on bikes. Elafonisi really does have the 'wow ' factor and out of season, was not too crowded at all. The water was crystal clear so beautiful for swimming. There is pink sand on the water's edge made up from broken coral.
Unknown pretty wader bird
Pretty swimmer, working off her lunch xx
 |
Sea daffodil  |
Pink coloured sand from the coral.
We managed to navigate back along even more tortuous mountain roads with no sign of life, other than many bee hives. We had a disappointing supper at a Pizza place where it was impossible to
avoid smokers. In fact, it is impossible to avoid smokers in any taverna as the Greeks have made a conscientious decision to take no notice of the smoking ban.
View of Paleochora on way back from Elefanisi
Wednesday 22nd October
It was pouring all morning so we sheltered in a cafe and wrote postcards.
When it cleared we hired very ancient bikes and went west a bit to Gramona beach, but didn't stay long as it was rather cold and wet but some Greek still managed to relieve us of 5 euro for sitting on one of his sun beds - we were the only people on the beach, where he came from who knows!
Tonight we went further afield to a very local taverna. We had noticed a rather intimidating man wealding a large meat cleaver in the back of a taverna with great cooking smells coming from it, so we decided to brave it and he cooked us some good local dishes.Thursday 23 October.
The weather has picked up again so we hired some rather better bikes and intended to ride up to Anidri from where a gorge starts and runs down to Gianiskari Beach. But half way up the not
inconsiderable hill we decided that we weren't here to test ourselves so turned around and free wheeled back to the start and took the un metaled track to Gianiskari which follows the coast. This was fun until two thirds of the way there and with our destination in sight, the heavens opened! Pedaling like mad and by now accompanied by the usual stray dog we prayed that if the beach bar was closed at least it's awning might still be in tact.
Thrillingly not only was it intact but it was open and serving magnificent food, probably because the Greek walking highway The E4 runs along this piece of coastline and there is a constant stream of all shapes and sizes puffing their way up and down the gorges on their way to who knows where!
We parked our bikes under the shelter and set about getting stuck into a bottle of Retzina for me and a demi of krassi aspro for her with an avocado salad and a Cretan salad with myzithra (soft) Cretan cheese.
We cycled home and the weather wasn't too kind but we still hadn't had a swim so selecting a sheltered spot Alec stripped off (with trunks on) and plunged into the waves only to be shouted at by a Greek who said it was too dangerous to swim here! Never heard such nonsense but since Vivi was taking him particularly seriously I did as I was told and clambered out.
That evening being a little bit tired of a choice every evening of Chicken, lamp chops (as it's written on the menu) or pork (souvlaki or otherwise) we opted for The Third Eye a vegetarian restaurant. It was packed and quite rightly so, the food was excellent, we went for the vegetable curry and the
owner was actually a 'seer' and had the Third Eye, made you think twice about some of the things you'd like to say about the other diners!
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