Tuesday 11 November. Knossos.

Determined not to be outdone by his mother, Stelios cooked us the most colossal breakfast, before we set off for Knossos. We had to ask if we could keep some of the cheese and spinach pies and chocolate cake for later!

En route we had to drop in at the airport to swop cars once again as the last one had a permanently locked boot. This wouldn't have mattered except that the passports and a suitcase were trapped. As we waited for the hire car bloke, the 'last Post' sounded in the army camp beside the airport. We realised that it was 11am on the 11th. It was a poignant moment. We have seen so many war memorials here.

We splashed out at Knossos and joined another couple who had a guide. The original price quoted was 80 euros so you can imagine the response to that! This came down to joining the one already started for 10 euros which seemed rather more acceptable. Notes changed hands discreetly between the guides and we did wonder whether the nice Americans we joined had paid the whole lot, but thought best not to ask.  

Our guide was very good and very informative. He had 1 enormously long fingernail which we know is a sign of an academic, but also ears that either had ear plugs in them, or were full to the brim with wax - not attractive and I found it difficult to concentrate on what he was saying some of the time as kept imagining  that the extra long nail could have done a good job of cleaning all that wax out!

Knossos was so well restored by Sir Arthur Evans in the early 1900s and it was good to see something built up to several levels, instead of rocks and partial walls, only a few feet off the ground. There is a bit too much concrete around but perhaps that is a necessity. We were told by an archeologist that they now believe that there are several more layers underneath going back way before the Minoans which can't be excavated because of the concrete on top. 

At the end of the tour, our guide cleverly asked where we thought the Labyrinth was? He then let us down gently by saying that it was probably just the Palace itself as the floor plan was so vast, people could have been lost for some time in the 1700 rooms. The rooms were so small a bull could not have been in there so I am not so sure! As a child Theseus and the Minotaur  was one of my favourite legends. 

We decided that we needed a swim so found a beach nearer Knossos and being prepared with the spinach spanakopita and the chocolate cake had a quick dip. The sea is still lovely and warm but the afternoon turned cloudy and the wind got up so we only stayed long enough to eat our left overs and move on.

Stelios then cooked the most delicious 3 course dinner, beetroot, walnuts  in yogurt dressed up like a cake, followed by really tender chicken, marinaded and grilled, followed by some of his mother's home made Limoncello. We fell into bed, and should sleep well, especially as Alec has invested in ear plugs. The dogs in the neighbouring villas appear to be locked in 24 hours a day and bark the entire time. It is a shame for the hotel as you wouldn't want to stay too long there with that going on all night.